Acajou, Grand Riviere

7th & 8th March 2011

It's Carnival Monday and Tuesday in Trinidad, and this year my fiancé and I have opted out of the chaotic national party to catch up on some much needed rest and relaxation. Along for the adventure are our friends, Yogita and Ramiz.

Grande Riviere is a small quaint village located on the Northern coast of Trinidad. Whilst it is now best known for the great leatherback turtles that come to the shore to lay their eggs during the months of March to June, Grande Riviere was historically a fishing and farming village. It's a four hour drive from the capital city of Port of Spain, but is worth every second of it. The amazing sights and the powerful energy of the ocean on the coastline is one of my favorite "get away" drives.

On the recommendation of a good friend, we have booked our stay at the Acajou Hotel. "Acajou", which means mahogany in French, is truly a diamond very cleverly cradled in the beautiful flora and fauna of Grande Riviere. Perched as the witness to the meeting point of the fresh water Grande Riviere River and the Caribbean Sea, it feels as though we have taken a step into another reality. As I step out of the van and look around, it seems like a plasma of calm surrounds the compound and separates us from the bustling city we left behind. Even with the Carnival music blasting in the nearby village, the serenity of this place seems to absorb the noise and diffuse it.

The rustic stand alone cabanas, carefully placed so as to allow maximum privacy amongst its guests, was designed and built by a French architect and his wife. The architect's worth can be measured by his eye for detail in the cabana's design, and the careful combination of warm and lighter woods used throughout the cabana. The rustic outward charm of the cabana beguiles all the modern conveniences of the interior. If the cabana's outer appearance and construction can be described as masculine, the finishing on the interior can only be described as romantically feminine.  A beautiful four poster bed is the central point of the room, with soft white draped mosquito nets that are so elegant, they look more like decorative bed curtains. Once I draw myself away from the beautiful bed, my eye is immediately drawn to the empty alluring hammock, gently drifting on the sea breeze in the covered patio. 



Our slice of Paradise



The beauty and serenity of Acajou is matched by its equally romantic origins. Sadly, two years after this little paradise was built, the architect's wife died, and he returned to France. Even though he has left our little paradise island, I hope somehow he knows how much this gem he left behind, means to those who have found it.

Acajou is now owned and run by a very polite and professional Swedish woman by the name of Christina. Under Christina's management, Acajou embraces and nurtures the eco-tourist consciousness in Grande Riviere, and on check-in we are told about the opportunities to obtain permits for turtle watching, hike along the Grande Riviere River, or even surfing lessons. We immediately sign up for turtle watching and after settling in to our cabana, we venture toward the shore.

Photo by Ramiz

As we exit the wooden gate of the compound and head across the wooden walk-way, we pass through what is left of the Grande Riviere fishing industry. There are a few pirogues grounded in the cove between the beach and the river mouth, and drag nets can be seen under the thatched hut. The fishermen are friendly and as we chat about a net they are working on, I can't help but notice that at least two of the men working on ropes are both missing their right arms from about mid forearm. I wonder whether it is the same rope they are working on now that has severed their limbs, or perhaps they got caught in the nets, but I cannot bring myself to ask. I find myself faced with their reality and silently pray that they manage well without the use of their hand.

Photo by Ramiz

The beach itself is beautiful. The sand is a little more coarse than usual and there is a steep embankment where the waves crash quietly onto the shore. On the eastern side of the bay, there are oodles of children splashing and playing in the river mouth where they don’t have to contest with the awesome crashing of the waves. As Yogita and Ramiz take a stroll, Edward and I spend our first evening in Grande Riviere sitting on this beautiful shore watching the light slowly fade from the sky.

Thanks for the recommendation Shan!

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